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Mukacheve The Land of Daffodills

22.07.2010 | Text: Maryna Kryvunchenko

Discover the castle of Transylvanian princes, thermal springs, churches and monasteries in the cozy old town of Mukachevo

 

 

PHÎÒÎ: PHL

 

Nestling at the picturesque foothills of the Carpathian Mountains, Mukacheve, or Mukachiv, is a small county town with the population approaching 90 thousand people) on the Liatorytsia River

 

PHÎÒÎ: PHL

The town’s rich history is reflected in its architecture, national and ethnic composition, local traditions and customs. Mukacheve was founded on the intersection of trade routes between Hungary and Galicia which in historical documents were called the Great Slavic Way. It is hard to say when it was founded but it was first mentioned in written sources 1114 years ago. Already by the late XIV century Mukachevo was an important manufacturing, trading cultural and religious center. Over the centuries, the town survived incessant political calamities. It has been part of Galicia-Volyn Principality, Hungarian kingdom, Austro-Hungarian empire, Czechoslovakia, was occupied by Nazi Hungary and then Soviet Union. Now it is a part of independent Ukraine.  Throughout 11 centuries of its history the town was changing, rebuilding, extending and flourishing.

PHÎÒÎ: PHL


In this town with glorious history everyone will feel easy and comfortable. Such a level of civilization and comfort can rarely be found anywhere in the country. Almost everything here looks like old Europe: narrow paved streets, stylish old-fashioned lamp posts and cosy street cafes. The bell ringing from the City Hall Tower will bring you back to medieval times.

Under the shroud of St. Martin, who is the patron saint of the city, seethed tense and colourful life.

Both the town and its suburbs are interesting from tourist’s point of view. Mount Krasna Hirka in then outskirts of the town is known to be the northernmost area in the world where black tea is cultivated.

PHÎÒÎ: PHL


From whatever side you enter Mukacheve you would not miss the great Palanok Castle, which played an important role in the formation of town. The castle is located on a former 68 meter high volcanic hill. The origin of the city name is believed to be connected with the castle. One legend has it that the castle was built in great tortures which in Ukrainian is “muka”. However, according to another legend the town was named after the mills on the river Latorytsya, and the name comes from the word “muka” meaning flour.

PHÎÒÎ: PHL


Mukacheve Castle survived centuries of thunderstorms. Its walls constrained raids of ancient tribes, Tatar-Mongol hordes, were besieged by Austrian troops, were the stronghold of the fighters against despotism, and the national liberation struggle of Hungarians in 1848-1849. In late XVIII century it became a huge jail for political prisoners. According to historical documents, in 1889 it accommodated 20 thousand prisoners. In 20th century the castle was converted into barracks of Czechoslovak and then Hungarian armies. In forties and fifties of the 20th centuries it was used for the needs of the Soviet NKVD, than KGB and police. Since 1993 it hosted the City History Museum and since then the castle gained the new live and been restored substantially but carefully. Today, restoration works go on in order to turn it into a modern hotel and a popular tourist attraction.

Another landmark of the city is the monastery on Chernecha Hill founded by Lithuanian-Rus Prince Fedir Koryatovych in XIV century. It is considered one of the oldest monasteries in Ukraine. The monastery also has undergone many changes and rearrangements. Until 1772 there was the residence of the bishops. Many prominent cultural figures of the region stayed here. Now the monastery walls accommodate to St. Nicholas convent, with 75 nuns living there.

While visiting the city you will definitely notice beautiful tower of the City Hall, built in 1904 by the project of the Budapest architect Janos Babula. In laying the foundation stone for the main clock tower on June 23, 1903 the constructors hided there a letter saying that the population of the city is 14,416 people and the city has 1,553 houses. The main tower of the building is decorated with chiming clock, which at one time were one of the best clock of Europe.

PHÎÒÎ: PHL


Imagine a green carpet on which white delicate flowers are scattered, not dozens or even thousands, but millions of them. One of the natural wonders of the region is a Valley of Daffodills. It is the only valley like this on the territory of CIS countries.  Smaller fields can also be found in the Alps and some Balkan countries. The area of 256.5 hectares is protected by the state. To see this miracle of nature go to Mukacheve in April or May, during a mass blossoming of daffodils.

Of late, Mukacheve saw a revival and has been going through major restoration, especially the old part of the city. Happily, the town escaped the Soviet reconstruction and did not turn into a monotonous “worker-peasant” paradise with five-story concrete blocks of flats. The city hall building was preserved in its original shape as well as the theater and other facilities built at the end of the 19th century. They are perfect examples of the architectural heritage of Austro-Hungary, where the spirit of Habsburg dynasty and stark melody of elegant gothic style interweaved with playful baroque.

PHÎÒÎ: PHL


Steadily, the town reclaims its European face. Questionable in environmental terms and fast-broken asphalt gives way to tested for centuries pavement. Downtown shops receive their original design back. Traditional local repair materials, such as ceramics and wood are given preference to once trendy plastic and aluminum.

Signs of return to civilized life are seen everywhere in the city, as historical center becomes pedestrian and streets receive their genuine names.

After exploring Mukacheve with its highlights, relaxing in the natural thermal baths in Berehove village and tasting the wine from the famous local vineyards one would irreversibly fall in love with this small and cosy Ukrainian town. 

 

 

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