tourism

Kamyanets, the pearl of Podillya

16.07.2009 | Lubov Chyhur for Weekly.ua, PHÎÒÎ: PHL

Where to go and what to see in a day in this Ukrainian city - the third richest in architectural landmarks and the most abundant in discoveries and surprises

The first morning in Kamyanets may be a bit disappointing: the train station, grey skies and reluctance about where to go. The locals at the train station will point Local people at the train station beat incoming tourists to punch:  «Fortress?»

Famous ancient castle
The Old City is a prelude to the fortress. To this day historians wonder what was built first. Either the city was built around the fortress or the fortress was built to defend the city. The remnants of ancient Roman buildings of the beginning of our era unearthed ten years ago add even more confusion. The city suddenly ends and a beautiful view of the huge castle and picturesque scenery opens up. The glorious Ukrainian 19th century poetess Lesya Ukrainka was lapidary: “a flower on a stone”.
The best view of the castle opens up on the square right before the Turkish Bridge. The place looks very popular among newlyweds from neighboring villages. Exhausted by the wedding preparations the bride and groom clumsily pose for the photographer. “Where are you looking? Look at me!” shouts out the angry bride. The groom is sullen and annoyed. Their first tiff?
This is definitely a brighter moment in the history of the fortress, which was the site of many skirmishes over the years. In 1672 the Turks invaded and seized the fortress. The Turkish army was 60 times larger than the Polish garrison defending the fortress. The defense lasted for three weeks and ended in a victory by the Turks, whose rule lasted for 27 years. Around 800 boys were  forced to Janissary corps, more than 100 carriages of wealth were expatriated to Turkey and the majority of city residents were either killed or got scattered across the nearby villages. 
This was in the past. Today, a drunk and unfriendly descendant of Cossack glory in the dirty traditional baggy pants sharovary offers tourists to try out archery for a symbolic fee. While the arrows are flying into the target, the guide is chatting on his cell phone.
The tour around the fortress lasts less than an hour during which you will see empty fortress towers and destroyed dungeons. An official that inspected the building in 1495 made a note found in the archives: “This castle is practically in ruins, there are literally no food supplies left and whole edifice is empty. In short, it is embarrassing to write such things about this great castle.”  Five centuries have passed but overall picture remained the same. Stuck to the traditions of touching the ancient stones, buy souvenirs and get into a patriotic mood.

City of romance
Kamyanets-Podilskiy is abundant in romantic places and love birds can be seen every step of the way. The scenery of towers, sky and river just leaves no choice. In addition, the local residents have an explosive mixture of bloods in their veins because Kamyanets-Podilskiy has been populated by representatives of quite an array of cultures and religions. The names of the city’s districts point to that: Russian, Polish folwarks... One will also see the remnants of the Armenian quarters with its central square and a ruined church. 
A major tourist attraction in the city is the Polish Cathedral, which in 1672 was converted into a Turkish mosque. Naturally, a minaret was built near the cathedral. When the Turks left the city the cathedral was restored to its original appearance, though the minaret remained intact and a gilded Madonna was erected on top.
The cathedral boasts a huge pipe organ and is lavishly decorated. It is steeped in legends and sad stories about famous people buried in it. To disperse the grief a visit to the City Hall tower is highly recommended. There is a museum of tortures located in its basement. Some of the torture instruments are real, but the executioner is a fake. The sounds of wailing victims throughout the museum add authenticity to the chamber.
You will never get bored in Kamyanets-Podilskiy, where you can lazily stroll around town, drop in museums and churches and pop into one of many cafes or restaurants for a drink, snack or hearty meal.
During the festivals held in Kamyanets practically every month the city is flooded with tourists. The most famous city festival is Terra Heroica held on October 1-4. All participants can dress up in medieval costumes (they can be rented out) and take part in the events on the agenda. Be prepared, though, that mobile phones, lighters and other modern-day gadgets are outlawed. Local clubs organize the reenactment of historic battles on the territory of the castle.
During the festivals the city authorities allow tourists to live in camps, though local residents are more than willing to put up visitors.

Where to accommodate?

Finding accommodation in Kamyanets is easy. The city has around 20 hotels that were built or reconstructed in the early years of 2000. The most expensive hotel is Cleopatra with prices starting at UAH 400 a room per night. The largest hotel is 7 Days where you will pay an average of UAH 250 a room per night. A Deluxe room at 7 Days costs UAH 1,500. The hotel boasts a sauna, swimming pool and fitness center. Company groups can order an evening show in the Old Tower.
Directly across from City Hall is a new hotel Amadeus Club 4*, which recently opened and offers rooms starting from UAH 450 a night. It has a lounge bar with a wine cellar built in the 1617th centuries. Local residents nicknamed this place “Buddha Bar”.
The only problem common in all Ukrainian cities is that it is much easier to find pub or restaurant than a public restroom. During the day some restrooms are open near sightseeing points. In the evening when all shops are closed you will only find a restroom in a cafes or restaurants.

International historic
festival Last Capital
(August 22-24)

This festival popularizes famous events throughout the history of the Ukrainian state in the 20th century. The reconstruction of military subdivision of the Ukrainian Halytska Army, Ukrainian National Republican Army, the Red Army and the Pilsudski Army gives spectators a chance to feel the spirit of those times and the parade in front of the Old Castle allows one to appreciate the drills and regimentation of those military forces.

International Military and Historic Festival Terra
Heroica 2009 (October 1-4)

A camp near the Old Castle offers tourists a great opportunity to feel the genuine military travel conditions of European warriors of the 17th century, while the military parade gives an opportunity to see the drills of Cossacks, flying hussars, musketeers, artilleryman and pikemen. Battles under the Old Castle are organized so that spectators are standing right on the sidelines of the battlefield. Under the city council scenes from the history of Kamyanets-Podilskiy will be reenacted.
The ancient Kamyanets is unimaginable without the breath of the bellows of a smith, the squeak of the millwheel and the smell of freshly chopped wood. This is the atmosphere that master craftsmen will try to recreate during the reconstruction of the original 16 craft shops in the city.
The luckiest tourist will have a chance to attend the evening show in the Old Castle together with Podillian Home Guard Army and the re-creators of the show.
All guests will be treated to the live performances of ethnic bands, kobza and lyre players. The spiritual aura of the festival will be supplemented by the Flos in lapide music festival, where one will hear pipe organ music and Baroque songs. Festival attendees will also be invited to participate in the strongman’s Silver Horseshoe contest and the Silver Arrow archer’s contest.

Printable version
comments powered by Disqus

News